High Quality Interconnect Cables

 

There are two basic opinions when it comes to A/V cables, either you believe in science or you believe in magic. I belong to the camp of people that believes in objective testing and not subjective testing. In short I feel that differences in cables can be measured and that if there is no statistically significant measurable difference between one cable and another then there will be no difference in the sound or video that is produced using that cable either. Some people believe that even though there may be no measurable difference between one cable and another there may still be a difference in the sound or video that is produced using that cable. I think this opinion is foolish and short sighted, but people are free to believe as they wish. This is not to say that all cables are created equally, but I am saying that you don't have to spend a lot of money to get cables that are just as good if not better than outrageously expensive cables.

What follows is a guide to making very high quality audio and video interconnect cables. The brand of components I've chosen to use is Canare, but there are plenty of other companies that manufacture high quality interconnect components. I'll start by listing the tools I use and also recommending places to buy them online.

1) $17.50 Crimping Frame Handle from Parts Express

2) $8.50 Crimping Die from Parts Express

3) $54.11 Canare TS-5C Stripper from Have Inc.

4) A pair of small scissors (I use a Leatherman Micra)

I know a lot of you are going to see the price of the Canare stripping tool and think it's WAY too high. Well, in my opinion it is, but I tried to use the Parts Express stripping tool and found out it won't do the job. If anyone finds a stripping tool that functions as well as the Canare and costs less please let me know.

You know what tools you need, now you need to decide on materials. At the bare minimum you need bulk cable and terminating connectors, but you might also want to make your cables look fancy (like mine). For that you'll also need some heat shrink tubing and Techflex sleeving. I buy all of my bulk cable and connectors from Have Inc., the heat shrink and Techflex I get from Parts Express. Here are the materials you'll need sorted by the kind of cables you want to make.

Component Video:

$1.27/ft Canare V3-5CFB Cable from Have Inc.

$2.67/ea Canare RCAP-C5F RCA Connectors from Have Inc. (you'll need 6 for a complete component video cable)

$2.95/ea Pack of 12mm red heat shrink tubing from Parts Express (this is optional, 1 pack will be more than enough for 1 component video cable)

$2.95/ea Pack of 12mm blue heat shrink tubing from Parts Express (same as above)

$2.95/ea Pack of 12mm green heat shrink tubing from Parts Express (same as above)

$2.95/ea Pack of 24mm black heat shrink tubing from Parts Express (same as above)

$12.30/ea 25 feet of 1/2" black Techflex sleeving from Parts Express (same as above)

 

Composite Video, Unbalanced Audio, General Single RCA Cable

$0.38/ft Canare L5-CFB Cable from Have Inc.

$2.67/ea Canare RCAP-C5F RCA Connectors from Have Inc. (you'll need 2 for a complete cable)

$2.95/ea Appropriate colored pack of 12mm heat shrink tubing from Parts Express (optional)

$6.88/ea 25 feet of appropriate colored 1/4" Techflex sleeving from Parts Express (optional)

 

Canare L5-CFB cable carries audio and video signals equally well so there is no need to buy two types of cable. The V3-5CFB cable is simply 3 L5-CFB cables that are made into a snake, you could just as easily use 3 L5-CFB cables in it's place for component video. The L5-CFB cables are available from Have Inc. in many colors other than black if you prefer. Now that you have all the tools and materials you should be ready to begin construction. I'll show you how to create a component video cable using V3-5CFB cable because this is the most complicated cable that I make. From these instructions it's easy to see how you would make cable using L5-CFB.

Component Video Cable Construction Using V3-5CFB:

First and foremost you should take the Parts Express die and install it in the crimping tool (this is fairly straightforward). Then you'll need to adjust the pivot (has "A" and "X" on it), this controls how tight the crimp is. Crimp the handles so that they are completely closed. Now remove the pivot screw. Release the handles and the pivot will move. Now replace the screw (there are two screw holes near the pivot and each time you move the pivot it should cover the hole you used most recently and open the other, so you will have to alternate which screw hole you use). Continue this process at least until the you have moved rotated the pivot 3 notches. I chose to rotate mine further for an even tighter crimp.

 

You'll want to strip at least 4" of the large black jacket off of the cable exposing the 3 component coaxial cables as well as some insulation. The more of the jacket you strip off, the more you will be able to manipulate the individual cables in, 4" is a bare minimum, more is generally recommended.

 

Remove the insulation using a pair of sharp scissors (careful not to cut into the coaxial cables) and separate the three cables.

 

Choose one of the coaxial cables and get your stripper. Use the small allen wrench that came with the stripper to adjust the three flaps so that they look the same as in the picture (these flaps adjust blade height). Then press the handle open about 2/3s of the way and insert the cable until it is flush with the exiting side of the stripper. Now release the handle and rotate the stripper at least 4 times around the cables. Hold the stripper over a trash can and press the handle open all the way, then pull the cable out. There may be some cable residue left in the stripper, you can try to remove it using the allen wrench that came with it or you can wait until the next time you strip a cable and it will be pushed out as you insert the cable.

 

Hopefully you can something that looks like this. Use your scissors to cut the exposed insulation off of the center wire. It may help to twist this bit of insulation as you pull it off.

 

The result should be this. Notice that cut that runs along the side of the outer colored jacket. Take your scissor and remove the braided wire that not covered by the outer colored jacket. Then remove the cut portion of the outer colored jacket.

 

Now your cable appears as such. You should now get a center pin and hollow metal cylinder. Slide the cylinder down the length of the cable. Take the center pin and fix it onto the center conductor. You may notice that the center pin doesn't go all the way down the center conductor, if this is true you should remove it and trim a small amount off of the center conductor using your scissors. It is not vital, however, that the center pin be absolutely flush with the insulating material, you can allow for some margin of error. Hold the pin in place on the center conductor and place it into the smallest groove (marked .068) of the crimping tool. The .068 groove is tight on one side of the die and then opens up on the other side. Examine the center pin and you will notice that at the bottom of the pin it has a small lip. You must place the bottom most part of the pin (the lip included) INSIDE the tight end of the die. Now crimp.

 

Now that you have the center pin crimped in place you should grab an RCA connector. Fan the braided metal back and slide the RCA connector over the center pin. Press the RCA connector firmly (it shouldn't be very hard) until you hear a "click". If you cannot get the RCA connector to "click" you should remove it and try straightening the center pin. Once the RCA connector is clicked in place you should not remove it for any reason, this will result in a ruined RCA connector and you may have to start the process over again. Now press the braided metal around the base of the RCA connector, if there is excess metal trim it with your scissors.

 

Slide the metal cylinder upward on the cable until it covers the base of the RCA connector. Then place the base of the RCA connector inside the second largest groove of the crimping tool (marked .324) and crimp.

 

If you choose you can now cut a length of appropriately colored 12mm heat shrink tubing and place it around the connector.

 

Now heat it with a cigarette lighter (or something else) until it has completely shrunk.

 

Repeat the entire procedure on all the other cables.

 

Now you can take your 1/2" Techflex sleeving and run it along the length of the black jacket, then trim it to fit. Take some 24mm heat shrink tubing, cut it, and place it around the ends of the TechFlex.

 

Now shrink. You're finished!